David Breashears is an American mountaineer and Emmy award winning filmmaker. He is well known for being the first American man to reach the summit of Everest twice in 1985. However, he is perhaps most famous for guiding Richard Bass to the summit of Everest, thus completing Bass’ ascent of the Seven Summits.
Breashears has also made eight expeditions to Everest, four of them successful. He has also successfully climbed to the summit of 22,494’ Ama Dablam in the Himalayas, and is well known in climbing circles for free climbing some of the most technically challenging rock walls in Colorado
Breashears was present on Everest during the 1996 Everest Disaster and was made famous by Jon Krakauer’s documentary, “Into Thin Air”. In that disaster, two guides and three clients perished during a fierce blizzard.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Breashears